Sorry we have been so late in getting this site updated. We have been travelling to the end of the earth, where the Internet and people are still yet to be seen.
We stayed in GeorgeTown for 10 days before we left the hubbub of "city" life and went south to the remote chain of the Jumento and Ragged Island Cays.
While in GeorgeTown we did the usual things - grocery shop, Chat 'n Chill for goombay smashes, dancing, search for wi-fi, grocery shop, laundry, walk the beaches, and stay on the boat during the windy days. We were looking forward to leaving, although Maggie did get caught up in community life and the cruiser nets.
On Friday, Feb 2, SeaTryst, still with Al & Jennifer on Tanden , weighed anchor, leaving GeorgeTown and the shopping behind us. We arrived Thompson's Bay, Long Island and immediately made reservations for dinner at the well-known Club Thompson Bay, where a feast is served for only $14pp.
At the Friday night happy hour, we were thrilled to see Ed and Joann from Dream Weaver. We'd met them in the Chesapeake in Sept 2005, and they were a wellspring of information about the Bahamas. So many times, we'd say "remember, Ed and Joann told us that...." It was great to see them again and tell them in person how grateful we were for their advice.
Although another front was in the forecast, we decided to go south and ride it out in the Jumentos. Al is a pilot and can read the weather better than most, so we followed his advice and started south. This is a chain of islands about 90 miles long, with no more than 70 people - most of which live at the very end in Duncan Town, Ragged Island. These are truly some of the most beautiful cays in the Bahamas with long white sandy beaches (with almost no human foot prints to mar their beauty) and unique coral formations. Few boaters travel along these Cays because of their remoteness and lack of shelter from western fronts. The waters around the Jumentos are referred to as the Fishing Grounds because they are rich in fish. Al showed off his fishing skills...within a half-hour of anchoring at Water Cay, he speared two Trigger fish, which soon became dinner. We ate in the cockpit and watched the moon rise over the hills.
The next day, we sailed (yes, really sailed!) 12 miles to Flamingo Cay. The boys were back to fishing, and Bob came back with a lobster (his first ever); fresh lobster for dinner.
Remember our "gold star days" - those where we spend no money. Well, we discovered "platinum star days" - where we earn our living rather than taking from our provisions. Ahh... life is good.
Flamingo Cay is a beautiful cay, with a cave you can actually drive the dinghy into, wonderful rock formations and of course white sandy beaches.
Sailing - yes, again - we went further south. It was an exciting trip to Buena Vista Cay with Bob's reel spinning off and on all day. Bob caught three fish - a 12-lb Spanish mackerel, a big yellow jack, and a bar jack - and then the really big one got away with his lure. We anchored at Buena Vista Cay next to a local fishing boat with six smaller outboards attached. We learned that over a nine-day period they took over a 1,000 lobsters (755 lbs of lobster tails) and lots of fish. We didn't think there was anything remaining for us to catch. But Al found a few they left behind.
In these remote islands we have to be self-sustaining and live independently. For example, we get rid of our paper trash by burning it on the beach. With no people, few boats, and no Chat n Chill, we find ways to entertain ourselves - Rosie has no problem with that; neither does Bob! We read, do chores on the boat, pick out pictures in the clouds, watch the fishing boats and dingy around the cays. The water is so clear that we don't need the looky bucket to see the fish or the coral.
On Wednesday, the 7th, sailing with just the jib, and doing 7+ knots most of the day, we arrived at Southside Bay of Ragged Island, only 65 miles from Cuba (Bob wanted to go, but saner minds prevailed). We hoped the Eagle's Nest would be open - a bar made from a crashed DC-3. It wasn't, but we enjoyed talking to Percy, it's owner.
After rocking and rolling throughout the night, we went north to Hog Cay, where we had to take a 3-mile dinghy ride to Duncan Town, through the mangrove-lined channel. Thursday was a good day to go, since the mailboat had arrived with fresh produce and other goodies. Even the mailboat anchors at Hog Cay since the channel is too shallow.....so shallow, we went aground in the dinghy on our return (the dingy draws 14 inches).
We were greeted warmly by every person we encountered; every one (virtually the whole population) shook our hands and welcomed us to their Town. The first person we saw was 81-year-old Mrs Maycock, the oldest person on the island. She was there for the mailboat and came with us to Maxine's store (she's standing in the doorway). Even the peacocks came out.
We hoped to have a drink at the local bar, which we found closed. We were standing outside and peeking in the windows, when we heard a woman shout to us from her door - did we want the bar opened? She'd call the owner. So, Sheila came walking down the street, keys in hand, and opened it for us. The island has approximately 80 people and supports three bars and a grocery store. Bob is glad to see they have their priorities right.
We learned that Sheila is the mother of 11 children, and lost count on the grandchildren. Most have gone on to Nassau for schooling and work. We met one of two policeman on the island; at first we were surprised they needed police at all, but then discovered that Haitians can be a problem. At one time Duncan Town had 1,000 people living here where they farmed the salt ponds and fished. Unfortunately the lure of Nassau has caused most of the residents to abandon their homes and leave.
Walking on the beach the next morning at Hog Cay, Bob had the taste for coconut. He got one from the tree and worked for quite a while to open it (banging, pounding, little by little he got it open), and shared the juice with Maggie. Another beautiful day in Paradise. Notice another white sandy beach, we refer to them as AFB.
As much as we didn't want to leave, we needed to head north to be ahead of the next front and forTanden to be refueled. Bob was also getting a little lonely for civilization. Rosie has found a new spot when we're underway, curled up in the cockpit under her tent.
We sat in Buena Vista Cay for 2 nights, spending one lazy day on the boat ... except for the brief time Bob and Al went diving and got 6 more lobster. Bob got the little ones and Al got the really big ones.
We spent a night at Water Cay, and then on Tuesday, Feb 13, we motored 41 miles back to Thompson's Bay, which has good protection for the North and West winds predicted for the next several days. We rented a car and drove around the island; ok, in part to find wi-fi, which we did at the beautiful Stella Maris Resort. Needless to say we hardly saw the resort, but did get a lot of work done.
We were in Thompson's Bay for a week while two fronts passed. One was the fastest moving and strongest we've seen since arriving in the Exumas - we saw 38 kts, slammed, banged, rocked and rolled all day. Paradise does have its downsides. On Tuesday we refueled and headed back to GeorgeTown. Along the way, Al hailed us - did we want to go to Calabash instead - the wind was right. So, we changed course - but got there and discovered the north swells from Exuma Sound were wrapping around the island, creating an unpleasant anchorage. We tried two more spots and finally settled in at Dove Cay. We thought it was nice, but throughout the night we had stern slapping, pitching, rocking and rolling.
On Wednesday, Feb 21, we motored 25 miles to GeorgeTown...and WiFi. The weather was perfect, sun shining, 82 degrees with white puffy cumulus clouds backed by a clear blue sky. Exactly what the Bahamas promises. Now it's time to update the site and renew old acquaintances.